
British Columbians and the Quebecois (my people, for better or worse) have something in common: a separatist movement that can spark heated political discussion at even the most convivial of dinner tables. While Quebec's nationalist fever has somewhat cooled over the last decade, I've met a number of British Columbians who still feel as though their geographical location at the extremity of such a large country has distanced them political, socially and financially from Canada's center, where the government is based. And this, many will tell you, is why you won't find many B.C. wines on U.S. wine lists. They aren't privy to the sort funding required to market their wines abroad. This is already changing - and the process might be sped up thanks to, ahem, yours truly. I accidentally sparked an argument between one of the province's preeminent wine experts and the New York Canadian Trade Commissioner that turned ugly before turning nice, and I can only hope some good will come of it.
In any case, the region is amazing. Set against a dramatic background of roughhewn mountains like sleeping prehistoric beasts, sagebrush-speckled desert, and rock that is as old as any on the planet, it's not your average place to grow vines. Most viticulturalists are forced to deal with changing temperatures, moisture and birds. Add deer, elk, and bears to the equation (oh, and why not throw in snow, and temperatures that peak in the 130-degree-Fahrenheit range) and you've got B.C. wine country. The Okanagan Valley, some 200 miles east of Vancouver, is producing wonderful and unconventional wines at mind-boggling prices, as well as serving up forward-thinking food based on local and indigenous ingredients.
I tasted all sorts of unusual varietals here, like Chasselas, Ehrenfelser and Carmenere, alongside Pinots, Chards, Cabs and Merlots. The winemakers I met liked to say they were still experimenting. The wines were paired with caribou sausage and grilled bison, as well as illicit unpasteurized cheeses smuggled cross-country from Quebec. Standout wines included Quail's Gate Rose (highly mineral with jalapeno notes), Cedar Creek Syrah (blended with Viognier for the aromatics), and a funky Burrowing Owl Pinot Noir (that I tasted with the enthusiastic pot-head of an assistant winemaker). Unlike other wine regions, after a day of tasting you can hike untouched wilderness or hire a kayak to take out on the lake, which is big enough to house its very own Loch Ness monster: Ogopogo. Wild Western Canada.